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Leaking Chips in Goliath

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  • Leaking Chips in Goliath

    $250 Goliath "Quarter Milly" is a good tourney. $20K Buy-in

    I ran it up to $180K down to $50K then back up to $150K then back down to 15BBs and out on a coin flip. Ever feel like just nitting it up when you get to big stack?

    I got great value on nut hands. 3-bets worked 90% of the time. Stole blinds 50% when I opened, and won almost every bluff. I feel good about every one of those type hands but 1, Js vs Qs in 10 high board. Lost 50K, should have folded and only lost 20K. I felt I did well minimizing losses like top pair and villain hits river, etc.

    My problem is I got A LOT of hands in my kind of upper range and opened for 2.2BBs, like Ace-broadway to KJs and when I bricked I lost 80% of time. Villain flopped top or middle pair at a much high percentage than normal when I brick (seemed crazy). I tried putting in a bet of 2.5-4BB on a street that should hit my range. I only lose 5-6BBs most hands and villain just checks and calls but it happened A LOT. Ace high never good at showdown. I think getting to showdown for 5BBs with Ace high is a good thing, right? I felt I was playing too many hands but kept getting AQ in early to mid position.

    Should I get more out of line with these types of hands? I did maybe twice when it was just the perfect spot with a semi-bluff and won big pots. I typically don't like to get out of line without connecting to the flop somehow.

    I don't know if I should just be limping with hands like AQ from early postion (or folding) or get more out of line when I brick (or some other adjustement?)

    Thanks in advance for any help.

  • #2
    The question seems a bit too general to answer well. However, you check for showdown with Ace-high if if the action indicates it might be good. i.e. missed draws abound. If you don't think it's good, you either check-give-up or can turn it into a bluff. Again, you gave kind of a general "they always have it" so it's hard to say what you should have done without know the specific hand action and context. Also, in these smaller buyin events people are much worse at folding *any* hand, so instead of trying to bluff you should generally be going for thinner value bets. In other words, it's ok to check-give-up with Ace-high and choose to add value-betting 2nd-pair instead.

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    • #3
      What is your sizing for a river bluff with Ace high if you can put villain on middle pair (under 10) and there is an overcard? And does bluff get bigger or smaller on a wet board?

      I guess my "too general" question is do you ever make an adjustment to try and protect your big stack in middle stages of a tournament? In general...lol.

      I know JL discusses mid-stage in his book, I need to go over again, too. I wish the books came with a cliff notes version for review.

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      • #4
        For second question, people have different approaches. One is to use small ball pot control lines more often so you don't risk taking a deep dive but still can build. I wouldn't call it playing tighter though, just smaller ball.

        AF's approach is also not to play tighter or looser, but instead to 3-bet more often, barrel more often and overbet more often. You can do this because you have chips to spare without committing your stack, and can threaten or imply the threat against smaller stacks of impending doom. You're choosing spots where they're profitable plays, so it's not like you're going out of your way to eff with people. You're just getting to make moves they can't afford to.

        As to your first question, it depends. Generally polarized when wet.

        As to your last comment, I usually make my own on first or second read.
        Last edited by reeeeeeper; 06-06-2019, 08:22 PM.

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